Ten years ago, I never thought that moving up the coast for a sea change, I would become a surfer. That I have. And I never look back to imagine what life would be without surfing.
I would not call it an obsession, but rather a passion for life for what it has to offer.
You would learn to appreciate life and take care of the environment that you live in, and hopefully, one day you can pass that on to the next generation.
That's how a cookie crumbles! Thanks for reading my blogs, Folks.
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